2014 Inter-State Demolition Derby
Saturday, August 9, 2014, 7:30 p.m.
The Inter-State Demolition Derby has been a staple of the Inter-State Fair & Rodeo for decades, providing a full evening of smashing entertainment for all ages.
2014 Modified Weld Full Size & Compact Class RACING RULES AND REGULATIONS
Please note some rules changes for 2014
General rules: ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
- Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
- Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
- Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
- DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
- Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
- NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
- No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test.
- Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
- Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
- All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby including trailer hitches & brackets.
- All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
- Tires no bigger than 17 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
- Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear -safety approved glasses, face shield or have FULL faced helmets.
- You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes
- Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. Compacts read additional rules on back!
- Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
- Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
- You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging.
- Only the Outside of Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of the doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires.
- You can weld frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward top side only! You are allowed 16 inches of additional frame seam welding from the firewall/dash mounts forward per frame rail. Frame seams can be re-welded if seam has broke apart or missed by factory welder but must call first! Must skip weld that area to prove it was broken or missed. The frame seam weld can’t be larger then 1/2” wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopar cars, which means No bolting the seam.
- For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a 1-bar across your dash with no gussets or kickers to firewall/dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. Dash bar must be 6” from dash sheet metal. Dash bar must be located no farther back the inside seam of front doors. Dash bar must be a minimum of 6 inches above tranny tunnel. Allowed 2 down bar from side door bars on the inside of the driver’s and passenger’s front door but can not be any farther forward then the inside front door seam & can go to frame.
- Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car but only 1 set of brackets may be used! Bumper brackets must remain stock and no cut/relocating of bracket parts. ********Front Bumper bracket can only be 18 inches long and can only be welded on the 1 side of the frame- No wrapping bracket to additional side of frame!! If you don’t use a factory bumper bracket, you may use 1 3/8 inch thick- 4 inch wide- 18 inch long strap welded on the outside of frame rail only and 1 side of frame only!!!! You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off!
- Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to 3/8” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.
- ***Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper. Weld the crome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper- FIX bumper! Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and be a minimum of 16” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper. Bumpers must be in stock location.
- You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame
- 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go threw body mount hole .You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. Trunk meets floor maybe attached in 2 spots to floor-2 bolts
- **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. Hood bolts can not be connected too DP and must be 6 inches outside of Dp- no welding in hood plates! You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
- Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend threw body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.
- Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end & springs to frame in 4 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
- Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear shackle box.
- Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. Homemade OK!!
- You may use ¾ or 1 ton rear ends with 8 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended
- Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybird rear-ends are allowed- must be mounted in factory location of car that you put in under
- *****Front arms may be bolted or chained may weld bolt to frame or 2 link of chain to side of frame- No gusseting of links to A-arm or frame! NO welding down with straps. You may plug weld the center down.
- Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. Any skid plates on engine or tranny can only be mounted to engine/tranny and can NOT be attached to frame or cross member. May not act as a gusset!
- Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Nothing on the engine can be used to re-enforce the frame/car body, etc. If any parts on the engine or tranny are being used to make the car stronger, you will be asked to cut or take that part off before you can run.
- You may have a 2-2” Strap only from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm mounting bracket on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps only on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to 3” from back of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! ****If you have Dist Protector, you can’t have straps on engine
- ***You may have tranny braces along the side of the tranny & on top side. The braces must be attached to tail house and bell housing of tranny only. Can not be connected to tranny mount or cross member. Braces can‘t be bigger then 2”X 2” Tranny cross member can only is mounted in stock location. Can be homemade but not larger then 2 ½” x2 ½” tubing
- Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance & you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
- For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof – you may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post and not to cage. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. The windshield bar can’t be any bigger then 3” wide- 5” on dash – 5” on roof only. The windshield bars must be a minimum of 3” outside the DP! You can only connect bars 3” above firewall.
- You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
- You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3/8 cable with 1 turn buckle in each window opening and may go to the frame. Turn Buckle must have 3 inches of clearance from body. You may weld washers around holes on car body. Wagons can have 2 althread from roof to frame but must be threw body mounts. If you use althread, only 1 spot of wire/cable per back windows
- You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame; it can not be bolted to the frame.
- You are allowed to bolt Factory body seams together. NO WELDING!!!!
- ***Dist. Cap protectors will be allowed on all cars. The protector can only be mounted to engine and or tranny bell housing. Front connecting Halos around Carburetor are allowed. There must be 6 inches of clearance between the Fire wall/dash sheet metal and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame, and cage. No engine straps can be connected to Frame when running a DP! DP can’t be bigger the 12”X12”. No spacers behind DP’s!!!
- 1977 & newer GM’s only can weld 1 plate on the outside only 1 side of rear arch over rear-end. This plate can only be 6 inches wide, 22 inches long and ¼” thick. You must drill a ½” hole in the plate so that we can see the thickness. You will not be allowed to patch over this plate if it bends! You must follow the frame rails with the plates.
- Gas tank protector are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal. This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but back bar!
- No frame shaping or manipulating of frames. You will be allowed to hammer in the sides of rear aches only. No squaring!
- Front frame can shorten but only to the front side of Factory radiator support mount. Radiator support must remain in stock location!
- You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
- Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail front and rear of car. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates.
- No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event.
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules- 4 & 6 Cylinders only.
- Any-Front wheel driver compact108”or less car but rear wheel driver compact cars must have a 105” or less wheelbase. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used.
- Can only weld front side of A-arms/struts forward, top side only. You are allowed 16” of weld dash forward besides A-arms forward. No rear ends bigger the 5 lugs factory can be used. Struts can be re-enforced but must be stock on each end of strut.
- When using stock tank under car, must relocate Fill tube threw floor into backseat area. Secure fill tube to sheet metal.
- ****Front bumper may have 1 - 3 inch wide X 3/8 thick- 6 inch long strap welded from bumper to frame. 3 inches on bumper and 3 inches on Frame only- 1 side of frame. Must be welded on top or bottom of frame only.
- Factory bumper brackets can only be 12 inches long and welded to 1 side of frame. Or you may use 1- 3/8 inch x 4 inch wide 12 inch long flat strap as bumper bracket. The strap must be welded to outside of frame and only 1 side or frame. Must be welded to bumper!!!